Soaking up history in Italy’s ancient bathing waters

4 Oct • 2024

Words by : Mitch Parker

Introduction

Ancient Roman bathhouses were opulent sanctuaries of relaxation and socialisation that featured elaborate architecture, numerous heated pools, intricate mosaics and grand social spaces.

Nestled across Italy, from its sparkling shores to its alpine mountain ranges, lie bathing spots steeped in history, where the echoes of ancient Roman relaxation still linger. Whether you find yourself in the hills of Tuscany or the valleys of the Italian Alps, you’re never far from an invitation to unwind in the country’s ancient waters. These bathing spots not only provide hubs of relaxation for locals and visitors alike but also serve as a bridge between past and present, where the legacy of Roman baths lives on thousands of years later.

One of the world’s most influential bathing cultures, archeologists believe Roman bathing began in the Italian peninsula around the 2nd century BCE. Over the next few centuries, baths spread throughout the empire and became an integral part of everyday life. By the 4th century CE, there were around 850 baths in Rome alone.Ancient Roman bathhouses were opulent sanctuaries of relaxation and socialisation that featured elaborate architecture, numerous heated pools, intricate mosaics and grand social spaces. Inside, all members of society were welcome, regardless of status or wealth. Stripped of class markers like clothing and jewellery, everyone mingled together while enjoying bathing rituals, exercise, intellectual discourse and, more importantly, the gossip of the day.As the empire began to decline, the great bathhouses of Rome were neglected and gradually fell into disrepair. While many ruins have been uncovered and somewhat restored, not a single one is in use for bathing today.

As sad as it is to have lost these baths, their legacy lives on in the bathing cultures that followed. The Romans set the foundation for future bathing establishments, particularly their architecture and engineering – think of the vaulted ceilings, heated floors, intricate mosaic designs, and water systems that we still use today.

Even the modern concept of bathhouses, spa resorts and retreats, where people come together to enjoy shared bathing experiences, draws inspiration from the communal bathing practices of ancient Roman baths. And while you can’t bathe in the exact same bathhouse as the ancient Romans, you can still enjoy the same mineral-rich waters in bathing spots across modern Italy today.As self-confessed bathing fanatics, we’ve toured many of the world’s great bathing cultures, looking for relaxation and inspiration in their warm waters. Italy became a natural focus as we sought to soak ourselves in the same waters that inspired the Romans.Below, we share our favourite Italian bathing spots, hoping inspiration finds you there too.

Fosso Bianco at Bagni San Filippo, Tuscany

One of Italy’s more off-the-beaten-track bathing spots, Fosso Bianco, is a thermal spring area of Bagni San Filippo – often described as Tuscany’s hidden hot springs.

Nestled in the woods, far from any major tourist landmarks, finding these baths involves a short hike through a forest before finding white-blue water set against calcified waterfalls.

The source of hot thermal spring water is the main waterfall (Fosso Bianco), which releases 48-degree water that meets an existing cold river. This means the cascading pools get cooler the further you explore from the waterfall, creating multiple temperatures for you to enjoy.

Overall, it’s a rustic experience that encourages you to convene with nature. After soaking in the warm water for a few hours, you soon release the hike, surrounding forest and the slightly gritty mineral residue are exactly what keeps this spot special.

Terme Bagni Vecchi, Lombardy

High in the Italian Alps, a few sharp mountain turns from the Stelvio Pass, you’ll find the ancient natural thermal waters of Terme Bagni Vecchi.

The name translates to “old baths”, a fitting title for the oldest spa in the Lombardy region of Italy.

Perched on the side of a mountain, this rabbit warren of a bathhouse features a mix of outdoor bathing with mountainous views, indoor pools, grottos, saunas, steam rooms, and more. There’s a hotel element attached to the bathhouse that clashes modern luxury with the crumbling grandeur of the old baths in a very unique way.

Ultimately, you lose yourself to both the maze and charm of the bustling space as you find new corners to soak in the waters, history and views.